Pochampally silk saree manufacturing history goes back to 1970, when it was decided by some village headmen of Pochampally to weave silk along with cotton(cotton weaving was being done since very long back), to make a better living. They have sent two young weavers to learn the secrets of the art to Bangalore. This was the beginning of a revolutionary era in the Pochampally handloom industry, which led to the eventual dominance of the Indian tie&die patola Industry.
The genesis of the decision to enter into new realms of weaving(silk), can be attributed to a new era, in the history of POCHAMPALLY IKAT. Its merchandise is a handicraft on which about a thirty thousand families depend on traditionally. The industry is second only to agriculture.
Pochampally products are handcrafted to perfection by skilled artisans who are endowed with critical skills in intricate designs, having decades of experience behind them in their respective fields. In certain cases these masterpieces can take upto one hundred and twenty days to take final shape, to the satisfaction of our craftsmen.
Pochampally is organised as a network of the crafty weavers to provide a clear & synergistic focus to business for customer service, product innovation & profitability.
There are at least 40 village's within a 70 k.m. radius of Hyderabad, the capital of Andhra Pradesh, including Pochampalli, Koyalagudam, Puttapakka, Elanki and Chautupal where pochampalli cloths are woven. Pochampally is famous for the PURE SILK SAREES. They have a deseign of their own and are known as Pochampally Sarees. The colours are mesmarising and even more ashtonishing is the simple methods they use to produce such majestic pochampalli saris!!
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The term ikat stems from the Malay - Indonesian expression 'Mangikat' meaning to bind, knot or wind around. In principle, ikat or resist dyeing, involves the sequence of tying or wrapping and dyeing sections of bundled yarn to a predetermined colour scheme prior to weaving. Thus the dye penetrates into the exposes section, while the tied section remain undyed. The patterns formed by this process on the yarn are then woven into fabric. The three basic forms being single ikat, where either wrap or weft threads are tied and dyed prior to weaving is combined ikat, where wrap and weft ikat may co-exist in different parts of a fabric occasionally overlapping and double ikat which is by far the most complex form. Here both wrap and weft threads are tied and dyed with such precision, that when woven threads form both axis, mesh exactly at certain points to form a complete motif or pattern.
No written document is available to as certain the origin or evolution of the ikat technique in this region. It is widely believed to have developed around the turn of this century. The oldest centre 'Chirala', situated on the rail route between Vijayawada and Madras, was once known to produce the famous cotton 'Telia Rumals' or 'Chowkas' woven in pairs admeasuring 55 to 75 c.ms. square. Characterized by their bold, geometrical motifs, in red, black and white, offset by wide single coloured borders, they were used in Indian by Fisher Folk and cowherds as loincloths, lungis or turbans. In the 1930's they were exported in large numbers to Burma, the middle east and East Africa where they were known as Asia Rumals .
In the 60's the all India handicrafts board assisted the weavers of Pochampalli to start weaving sarees. Silk weaving was also introduced by training two weavers in Banaras. Pochampalli, a small village, slowly captured the market for pochampulli textiles, ikat sarees and today the whole of Nalgonda district works on ikat weavers which can compare with the very best in single ikat wrap weaving.
Silk is brought from Bangalore and Surat is the place from where pure zari is sourced. In pochampalli most of the weavers work for the Pochampalli co-operative society and the materials are provided to them through the society itself.
Pochampalli weavers are experimenting these days with Jacquard and dobby techniques to combine it with ikat with the help of the weavers service centre, Hyderabad. Saree merchants from Hyderabad are exporting Pochampalli saris.
Along with the traditional parrot, elephant, diamond and flower motifs, the ikat saree designers these days are developing new and modern designs to go with the current trends of the market.
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